Hong Kong In The Time Of Coronavirus
At this time Hong Kong has a policy first of denying entry to anyone who is not a resident and for all of those who it does admit, requiring that they be tested for Covid-19 on arrival. If the test is negative - everyone must submit to quarantine for 14 days. If you're positive I'm sure it's some medical facility - a whole different process.
Hong Kong is one of a few countries that have severe restrictions on entry. Australia does and so do various European countries along with the US. A few also impose mandatory quarantine periods, such as Australia. The UK is threatening to - but seems unable to make decisions presently.
For Hong Kong, the quarantine is strict. It is electronically monitored and in multi-person households, the quarantined is expected to be separated internally.
Permanent Residency
Specifically how does it work? I have had occasion to find out: I am a Hong Kong Permanent Resident as the result of living and working there for seven years ending a few years ago. As a legal residents for 7 years myself and my family had the right to apply for Permanent Residency which we did. However, Hong Kong permanent residencies must be maintained: you lose the status if you are absent for a continuous 36 months. Therefore, after we left, we agreed we would make sure we returned at least that often to maintain our residencies.
And then came Coronavirus. Just exactly as that 36th month was approaching...
Travelling Through a Sick World
It was with great effort that we even managed to get flights to Hong Kong. Of the total of 14 legs that were booked and paid for the trip to Hong Kong, 9 were cancelled without warning by the airlines. These are large reputable airlines - it gives a window into the scale of the crisis that is befalling them.
Some of the legs I rebooked to what became my eventual flights. I have hope that for some of the other legs I'll get refund. For some that has already been denied - I'll get "credit". I can't blame the airlines - they must hoard their cash. It's a desperate battle between them for survival. It looks like we'll lose Virgin's airlines - Virgin Australia is gone already. I think a Lehman Brothers scale shock may happen - British Airways? Lufthansa? Cathay??? Many will be restructured or nationalized.
The airports we saw on the trip the were striking in their emptiness. In places normally bustling with tourists and business people there's almost no-one. For the few we saw we wondered what they were doing there - and they wondered, presumably, about us. Most shops were shut. One or two duty-free with deathly bored staff. They may be wondering how long they'll have jobs. A couple of cafés, social distancing markers installed, plastic barriers and counter serving only. All the restaurants and pubs, many that would normally serve all day - shut and shuttered. Will they open again?
On our flights everyone had to wear a face mask. You couldn't even enter the airports without one. Nevertheless there were always a few not wearing them. This irritates me. The reason you wear a mask is to stop you infecting others principally - so do they just not give a crap? I find it offensive. Even on the aircraft there were several not wearing their masks. The staff didn't make any effort to encourage them - though, when mine slipped below my nose on one occasion the flight attendant politely motioned me to pull it up! I speculate that they've learned that those who don't wear them react aggressively to being told to. Airline staff know that situations like this are to be avoided at practically all costs. The Maskless tend to be older men or younger women it seems to me.
The seats were organized so that every second seat was empty - unless you were a family group. Even so no more than half the rows were filled. Plenty of space to stretch out at least.
One hot meal was served. There was no choice - just one vegetarian meal. No hot drinks, no alcohol - just water. There was no service beyond occasional fill-ups of water. They gave a large plastic bag full of various packaged foods - cereal bars and the like - a cheese sandwich and two mandarins. Very sparse service.
Arriving Home
Hong Kong International Airport - one of the world's busiest in normal times - was a very different place to what I remembered. We taxied past multiple long lines of Cathay, HK Airlines and other parked aircraft - some filling unused taxi ways. Normally the exit of the plane is like an on-ramp of an expressway - everyone rushing to be first to immigration to avoid the queues. This time it was confusing: where do I go? There was no crowd to follow. Approaching the control area, you must first fill in health forms. If you're in the know you'd already have done everything on-line and have a QR code ready to scan - worth doing! There's 4 forms for each passenger.
Once forms are filled, you follow a circuitous route from one polite, Cantonese native functionary to the next each of whom has a role - take temperature, check forms, give you a document, check id. Then immigration - normally 20 lines of electronic ID card checkers and many manned booths each with long lines behind them. This time - just one booth and a small line of those who had reached this stage. Incredible to see the huge structure of the airport reduced to directing us strange few.
With immigration completed, for us it was mission accomplished. For our purposes, ideally, we should just turn around and get on a plane back to our normal home - but this is not allowed! Once you enter HK you have to at minimum complete the 14 day quarantine. So on we go!
The Great Testing
We left the baggage area - itself like a great mausoleum to the travel industry - through one of the normal two exits, but this time we were directed, eventually, to an exit into the humid Hong Kong air. They checked one of the forms and we were shown to the open door of a coach: off to the Asia World Expo building which is part of the HKIA complex.
On exiting the coach, there is are lines of luggage carts. Most take at least one for their luggage. On entry to the building - huge cavernous, normally hosting one huge trade fair or another - again, it's a succession of steps, hosted by friendly public servants, directed by uniformed officers of some department or other - health presumably. The first part of the activity is to get tested, but prior to this you must dump your luggage. This is where it would help to know what's happening: you won't have access to it again until you leave - and this is likely at least 8 hours later. Therefore some suggestions on preparation: take with you before you go a small bag - perhaps a backpack, in which you'll place some food, drinks, entertainment (and extra battery packs if your devices won't last 8 hours). Take this bag when you leave your luggage. You're going to have a boring wait. You will also get a number of documents - so the bag should be big enough for these - significantly bigger than A4 as well as the other supplies. The Wifi in the centre is passable - though WhatsApp video failed to work. You need to re-log in every hour or so - but it remains free.
Once your luggage is parked you are taken by another coach to the testing area - a different part of Asia World Expo. It's a short drive. You are then given a pack by a health officer who also explains how to do it, "it" being the DTS test: Deep Throat Saliva. They provide a sealable plastic bag containing another bag, a plastic test-tube with a screw lid, a paper funnel, some wipes and some tissues. In case that explanation is not sufficient there is a 5 minute video explaining what to do. Honestly, these explanations make it sound more complex than it is. You're then directed to booths to create the sample.
What you do is spit in the tube. Okay, you're supposed to "hack" and thereby produce deep throat saliva - but in this there can be a problem as there was in my case: my mouth and throat were quite dry after the dry air of the flight! Again some preparation: adequately hydrate towards the end of your flight into HK! The risk is that you are unable to produce enough deep throat saliva and the test is not valid - in which case you'll have to do it again and wait another 8 hours!
When you enter the booth there is a small table and a waste bin next to it. You open the plastic bag and take out of it another sealable plastic bag. This you should open wide and fold back the opening so that it stays open and sits open and accessible on the table. This is not so easy, for one thing due to the geometry of the bag and also because in the huge room you're in, winds develop that can blow the bag over. So that takes a bit of fiddling. Then you take out an alcohol wipe and thoroughly wipe your hands. This is to avoid the possibility of contamination. Even before this you should take every opportunity to wash your hands - there are plenty of alcohol hand-cleanser dispensers around.
So now you've got to "hack" - that is, suck into your mouth as much saliva as you can exude from as deep as possible in your throat. You unscrew that top of the plastic test-tube and place the paper funnel into its top. Then spit in it until it's at least half full. This was difficult for me due to my throat dryness. Nevertheless I did eventually get it half full - though the "depth" my saliva came from didn't seem very great.
Once you think you have enough, very carefully remove the funnel, so that no drops of saliva go on its outside and then carefully screw the cap on so it is airtight and firm. If you do get saliva on the outside, you take one the tissues (not the alcohol wipes because they can deface the tube's labeling) and dry it thoroughly. Then put the tube upright in the plastic bag you set opened - i.e. so that the writing on the bag is upright. You should keep the tube upright at all times. You seal the bag and wrap it around the tube, then - keeping the tube upright - put this bag into the sealable section of the original bag - arranging it so the tube of saliva remains upright. You then take this to the health officers who will direct you to put it in a particular box. It's identified to you by a document that has been placed in the bag earlier. Once this is done you return by coach to the original area.
Purgatory
Then you wait. You sit and wait on a plastic chair in front of a small table each set 1.5 metres away from the others. And you wait. Once in a while they deliver either bottled water or white bread cheese and ham sandwiches. Not inspiring. It's a long wait with no intervening activities other than a couple of further forms to fill out. You need that bag I mentioned with entertainment devices (or a book) - and some food and drinks. A small cushion would also be good since those seats are quite hard.
The elderly Cantonese man next to me found it outrageous. "it's not like this anywhere else in the world!" He yelled (in English). What he was saying in Cantonese I'm not sure, but I doubt it was complimentary towards the authorities. Of course, I'm not sure he'd traveled much internationally during the pandemic - it's rather similar anywhere they've elected to lock down their population.
My understanding is that if you arrive after about noon the test won't be finished before the end of day and you will be accommodated in a hotel - luckily we arrived in late morning. Also, if your sample wasn't good enough, you'll have to provide another - and the wait would probably be too long and the overnight stay would be necessary. As it turned out in my case, dry mouth and all, the test worked and was negative. They affixed a wrist band to my wrist and directed me to download an app called Stay Home Safe.
Free for an Hour
We triumphantly exited and took the Airport Express to our address to begin our quarantine. That was a bit odd - taking public transport (and then a taxi) during quarantine. I suppose they believe that statistically the chance of an asymptomatic individual spreading the virus in that short time is very small.
Arriving at our place, I opened the app and pressed the button indicating that I was home - I've forgotten the text - perhaps "At Home"? It then directs you to place your wrist band (and those of your family) near your phone. Then it says "walk slowly around your home for 60 seconds". I wish I could have prepared for this - I would have gathered everyone in the middle first, and would have worked out a plan to properly traverse the whole space.
Following this, every few hours the app wakes up and instructs you to scan the QR codes on the wrist bands - within 10 seconds: it's a bit of a rush! Presumably it then checks the location of the phone is adequately within the location bounds it had established during the "walk". This is how they compel you to stay in your home. I imagine there are various was to flout it - slip off your wristband and let someone else do it for you e.g.. But the fines are stiff for any transgression that's found out - and for a reason! This is to continue the excellent job the HK authorities have done to protect their population. Therefore I had no intention to break the rules.
Hard Lock Down
Once at your home, unless there is someone to help, you have the problem of needing food. The various apps work - Uber Eats, Deliveroo and also some local ones: Open Rice, Foodpanda and others. Also, some supermarkets do delivery - but it can take days. There's no easy resolution to this. If possible, work it out in advance with a local friend to get an initial groceries delivery - or it will be delivered meals for a few days.
It may be possible to work out informal delivery by calling local shops or supermarkets (even big name chains like Wellcome). But it will be difficult without Cantonese - or if you're lucky Mandarin.
If you don't have such a friend, remember, in advance to get a paid up Uber Eats or Deliveroo app and account: for most other delivery means you need a local phone number - but you'll have no way to get one. For Uber and Deliveroo they can pay through your existing payment method and even call you by routing within the app.

